Sunday, October 7, 2012

How many trouser fittings do you do?

Friends, this week has been all about trousers pattern draft and fitting. OMG, I didn't realise that fitting can take so  much time? How many fittings do you do? Do you create shell for each fitting? What is the most efficient way of doing it?
Picture 1 - Pattern Draft




Picture 2. - Sewing of the Fitting Shell



Picture 3.  Final Pattern &3 Fitting Shells



Picture 4. Final Fitting - Front

Picture 5. Final Fitting - Back
Please don't think that I will be wearing my pants on  true waist. The pattern drafting method is based on true waist hence this shell goes all the way up there.


On another note, I did some shopping on Amazon.com. Thanks to Thin Man Sewing, I decided to buy  the Zip Snip Electric Fabric Cutter. Good Stuff!!!.  Plus few more books...

Picture 6. My latest Amazon Purchase
And finally, a well deserved beer...


That is all for now my friends.... Please leave  your comments with the fitting tips. How  do you approach  pants fitting problems? Thank you for reading this post and  have a great day Everybody!!!!

Cheers Mike

9 comments:

  1. The fit is looking nice!! I have a hard time with pant fitting. I remember when we were doing pants in my patternmaking class, and my Russian teacher was checking out my hip line. She said, "It looks very curved," and then looking at me, "But you are also very curved." But in a Russian accent, so it had that tough-love feel to it.

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    1. Thank You Suzanne!!! Curves are good darling :)

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  2. I have no idea! I just sewed my first fly front at the American Sewing Expo last week. I really want to start making pants, and the fly front was my first hurdle. Guess I'll find out how many fittings are required this winter! Your muslin looks great!

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    1. Hi Kyle/ I was soo impressed with your entry regarding the American Sewing Expo. Well Done!!!

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  3. Can you tell me the title of the book you use for pattern drafting? I Googled The Guarino Method of Pattern Making from your previous post and I found some references to the method, but I was hoping you could post the actual name of the book and where you purchased it. Thanks.

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    1. HI Anonymous, website link attached. Please note this site is only in Italian as the actual Institute is in Rome. Just use Google Translate and it should work. There are 3 books and first book comes with the "squares"
      http://www.scuolacentromoda.com/index.php/estensioni
      Further to this, there is a lady here in Australia who teaches the material but then again you would need to be here to attend- I don't think she does online purchases. Her website is http://www.ciamaustralia.com.au/index2.htm

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  4. Thanks a bunch! I'll look at those websites.

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  5. hey Mike, I just saw this post about a meetup of Sydney bloggers and thought I would pass this along...
    http://loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com/2012/10/sydney-sewists-meet-up.html

    Glad you enjoyed the post about the ASE! I am now doing the patternreview.com jeans class online! Am making my fit muslin today, woot!

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  6. I find most muslins that look like yours from the back need to really concentrate on the drag lines that point to the problem. Your horizontal ones say that your inseams need to be let out and the back crotch seam dropped/sewn lower so it does not crawl up the crack.Try basting it 1/2 - 1 inch lower just as it starts to curve under in the back tapering to nothing as it makes it's way to the front just past the junction at the inseams. Your front photo has the same horizontal drag lines pointing to the inseam.

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